http://tomasvanhoutryve.photoshelter.com/gallery/KALMYKIA-Chess-and-Buddha/G0000ZCqAAIW28U8
What can an obscure autonomous
republic on Europe's eastern fringe do to get world-wide attention?
For the Republic of Kalmykia, the answer is a curious mix of chess,
Buddhism and extraterrestrials.
Kalmykia is perhaps the most improbable offspring of the collapsed
Soviet empire. An errant tribe of Mongol nomads who wandered out of
Central Asia in the 17th century, the Kalmyk lived as pastoralists
in relative peace on the lunar-like steppe south of Volgograd until
the arrival of communism. Although Lenin's own grandmother was
Kalmyk, the Bolsheviks did not spare their Buddhist monasteries
from destruction nor the monks from arrest. During WWII, Stalin
unleashed his furry on the Kalmyk people, deporting the entire
population of 120,000 to forced labor camps in Siberia. Khrushchev
allowed them to return from exile 13 years later, but by then their
culture and language had been nearly erased.
Enter Kirsan Ilyumzhinov, millionaire and child chess champion.
Elected as the first president of Kalmykia at the end of Soviet
rule, he has filled the Kalmyk cultural vacuum with his own
megalomaniacal dreams. He built a bizarre chess-themed city, and
managed to make it the capital of the World Chess Federation
(FIDE). International tournaments are hosted regularly and chess is
mandatory in all Kalmyk schools. Next, he ordered construction of
Europe's largest Buddhist temple. Kalmykia is now a regular stop on
the Dalai Lama's global itinerary. Earlier this year, Ilyumzhinov
grabbed headlines when he announced on Russian national television
that he had been abducted by aliens in yellow suits. He also claims
that chess comes from outer space. Despite the bizarre
statements--or perhaps because of them--Ilyumzhinov was reelected
as the head of FIDE on September 29, 2010.
The main Buddhist temple of Elista, know locally as a
khurul is seen at the end of the day in Elista, Republic of
Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 10, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Women participate in a yoga class inside the main Buddhist
temple in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May
13, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
A Buddhist monk refolds his robe inside the main Buddhist
temple in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May
10, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
A newlywed bride turns prayer wheels at the main Buddhist
temple in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May
7, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
A Buddhist monk blesses people and collects offerings
inside the main Buddhist temple in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia,
Russian Federation on May 10, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Girls wear soviet era military uniforms as part of Victory
Day celebrations in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian
Federation on May 7, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Girls play in a playground in the village of Arshan Bulg,
Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 8, 2010. Seen in
the background is a Buddhist stupa.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Competitors take part in a chess tournament in City Chess,
a newly constructed suburb of Elista in the Republic of Kalmykia,
Russian Federation on May 8, 2010. Kalmykia is known as an
international chess mecca, due to the fact that its President,
Kirsan Ilyumzhinov, is the head of the International Chess
Federation (FIDE). Chess is mandatory in primary schools though out
the autonomous republic.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Russian tourists visit the chess centre in City Chess, a
newly constructed suburb of Elista in the Republic of Kalmykia,
Russian Federation on May 8, 2010. Kalmykia is known as an
international chess mecca, due to the fact that its President,
Kirsan Ilyumzhinov, is the head of the International Chess
Federation (FIDE). Chess is mandatory in primary schools though out
the autonomous republic.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
A municipal employee puts away giant chess pieces under
the central square of Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian
Federation on May 9, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Horse riders prepare for a public display at the horse
racing track in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on
May 9, 2010. The riders are dressed with Soviet Red Army tunics in
obserance of Victory Day, when the Soviet Union defeated Nazi
Germany in WWII.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Boys with a kite play on a monument of an old Soviet Red
Army tank at the entrance of Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian
Federation in May 12, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Girls at a modelling school groom themselves in a mirror
in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 10,
2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Young women from a modelling school prepare to greet the
President of Vietnam before his arrival at the airport in Elista,
Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 10,
2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
A girl makes bubbles near the neon lit pagoda in Lenin
square in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May
6, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Actors perform in a theatre dance production in Elista,
Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 6,
2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Actors prepare for a theatre dance production in Elista,
Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 6,
2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
People stroll near the neon lit pagoda in Lenin square in
Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 6,
2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Competitors take part in a chess tournament in the village
of Arshan Bulg in the Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on
May 8, 2010. Kalmykia is known as an international chess mecca, due
to the fact that its President, Kirsan Ilyumzhinov, is the head of
the International Chess Federation (FIDE). Chess is mandatory in
primary schools thoughout the autonomous republic.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Women take part in a military parade marking Victory Day,
the day that the Soviet Union defeated Nazi Germany during WWII in
Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 9, 2010.
Seen in the background is a statue of Lenin whose grandmother was
of Kalmyk origin.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Men play chess open air chess on a massive board in Lenin
Square, Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 6,
2010. Kalmykia is known as an international chess mecca, due to the
fact that its President, Kirsan Ilyumzhinov, is the head of the
International Chess Federation (FIDE). Chess is mandatory in
primary schools though out the autonomous republic.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Russian army soldiers put up tents in preparation for the
May 9 Victory Day celebrations in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia,
Russian Federation on May 6, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
A woman rests against a spere in Elista, Republic of
Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 6, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
A girl spins a Buddhist prayer wheel in Elista, Republic
of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 6, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Actors prepare for a theatre dance production in Elista,
Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 6,
2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Actors prepare for a theatre dance production in Elista,
Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 6,
2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Boys play with soviet era military weapons as part of
Victory Day celebrations in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian
Federation on May 7, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Girls wear soviet era military uniforms as part of Victory
Day celebrations in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian
Federation on May 7, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Girls wear soviet era military uniforms as part of Victory
Day celebrations in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian
Federation on May 7, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
People wear soviet era military uniforms as part of
Victory Day celebrations in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian
Federation on May 7, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
People wear traditional Kalmyk clothing as part of Victory
Day celebrations in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian
Federation on May 7, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Head of the government of the autonomous Republic of
Kalmykia, president Kirsan Ilyumzhinov is seen in Elista, Kalmykia,
Russian Federation on May 7, 2010. Ilyumzhinov, is also the head of
the International Chess Federation (FIDE) and has turned the
republic into a chess mecca by hosting international tournaments,
building a suburb called City Chess and making chess a mandatory
subject in primary schools.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
People pray inside the main Buddhist temple of Elista,
know locally as a khurul, in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian
Federation on May 7, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Competitors take part in a chess tournament in the village
of Arshan Bulg in the Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on
May 8, 2010. Kalmykia is known as an international chess mecca, due
to the fact that its President, Kirsan Ilyumzhinov, is the head of
the International Chess Federation (FIDE). Chess is mandatory in
primary schools though out the autonomous republic.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Girls are seen in a nightclub in Elista, Republic of
Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 7, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Competitors take part in a chess tournament in the village
of Arshan Bulg in the Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on
May 8, 2010. Kalmykia is known as an international chess mecca, due
to the fact that its President, Kirsan Ilyumzhinov, is the head of
the International Chess Federation (FIDE). Chess is mandatory in
primary schools though out the autonomous republic.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
A view from the chess centre in City Chess, a newly
constructed suburb of Elista in the Republic of Kalmykia, Russian
Federation on May 8, 2010. Kalmykia is known as an international
chess mecca, due to the fact that its President, Kirsan
Ilyumzhinov, is the head of the International Chess Federation
(FIDE). Chess is mandatory in primary schools though out the
autonomous republic.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Girls play in a playground in the village of Arshan Bulg,
Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 8, 2010. Seen in
the background is a Buddhist stupa.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Girls play on old tires in a playground in the village of
Arshan Bulg, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 8,
2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Head of the government of the autonomous Republic of
Kalmykia, president Kirsan Ilyumzhinov is seen in Elista, Kalmykia,
Russian Federation on May 9, 2010. Ilyumzhinov, is also the head of
the International Chess Federation (FIDE) and has turned the
republic into a chess mecca by hosting international tournaments,
building a suburb called City Chess and making chess a mandatory
subject in primary schools.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
A girl walks through a playground in the village of Arshan
Bulg, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 8,
2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
People gather around what is considered to be a sacred
tree growing isolated in the steppe near Elista, Republic of
Kalmykia, Russian Federation in May 9, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
People pray inside the main Buddhist temple of Elista,
know locally as a khurul, in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian
Federation on May 10, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Officials wait at the airport for the President of Vietnam
to arrive on the outskirts of Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian
Federation on May 10, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
The main Buddhist temple of Elista, know locally as a
khurul is seen at the end of the day in Elista, Republic of
Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 10, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Buddhist minks take part in a religious service in the
main Buddhist temple in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian
Federation on May 10, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
A Buddhist monk blesses a boy inside the main Buddhist
temple in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May
10, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Young women from a modelling school groom themselves in
preparation to greet the President of Vietnam before his arrival at
the airport in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on
May 10, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
The main Buddhist temple of Elista, know locally as a
khurul is seen at the end of the day in Elista, Republic of
Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 10, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Boys with a kite play on a monument of an old Soviet Red
Army tank at the entrance of Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian
Federation in May 12, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
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